Rose Perfection

Organic Rose Growing:

Can’t be done?

Well yes it can, Roses are prone to all sorts of Pests and Diseases and are vigorous feeders but with the right regime, Organic Rose Growing is a lot easier than you might think.

To be successful at Rose growing there is a combination of things that you need to do to ensure you can grow bloom after bloom of fragrant flowers without the inputs of nasties that growing under a conventional system warrants. No one single formula works on its own, you need the complete cocktail to be sure of a positive result.

The secret is the same as growing most other crops, keep them healthy and well feed and the results will follow.

Below I am going to list the “right” combination that will not only produce some of the most spectacular Roses you have ever grown but without one single introduction of Chemical Fertiliser or Pesticide/Fungicide.

First and foremost get the soil right, add copious amounts of Organic Matter to provide the perfect growing conditions for the roots. Roses do prefer a slightly heavy soil, so if you have a sandy soil type then add plenty of Compost to give the ground some guts. I mean heaps! At least twenty litres of good quality compost per plant dug into the hole you are going to plant your new Rose into or worked into the ground around your already established plant. Heavy clay soil, again add Compost to open the ground up creating the right soil conditions that are conducive to vigorous root growth.

If you are planting a new Rose then include approximately five litres of either Sheep or Com Manure into the planting hole as well. This gives the Rose some early fertiliser is a natural form while it is establishing itself.

This part is critical if you get the soil right then nothing after that will count. A soil that is rich in Organic Matter releases Nutrients locked up under normal conditions and creates an ideal environment for the multiplication of Beneficial Bacteria and Fungi to keep the roots of your Rose in tip-top condition.

After this initial treatment then at least annually (six monthly is best) you will need to apply approximately 100mm of loose Mulch (Straw, Cane Mulch) or 50mm of a more compact material (Compost) to the top of your soil. The best scenario is to reapply as soon as the last lot you put on is all but gone.

When Mulching the top of the ground, spread liberal amounts of Animal Manure first, I prefer  Chicken Manure (which I buy in a Pelletised form from our local Garden Centre) and water it in well. Then spread a generous layer of newspaper or cardboard, this will suppress the weeds and provides an excellent worm food. Lay your Mulch on top of this and water again. If you intend to use bark for your top mulch then make sure you spread a layer of Compost on top of the soil with the Animal Manure, as Bark is inclined to use Organic Matter while it is breaking down because it is very coarse and raw.

If you live in a hot climate like we do then Mulching the soil is an absolute must, this keeps the soil cool, Roses are a cold climate plant and will sulk if the soil temperature gets high. Make sure the ground has a 100% cover all summer to be successful at growing Roses in hot climates.

Fertilising of your Roses from this point consists of a liquid feed of Fish Fertiliser every two to three months depending on how they are looking. This keeps them topped up strong and healthy if they start to look a little hard done by then increase the regularity until they pick up again. Us five litres per Rose.

To keep the foliage healthy and repel Pests apply a Foliar Fertiliser of either Fish or Seaweed every two weeks, you can alternate with Molasses at the rate of 5mls per litre for a bit of variety. All of these will deter Pests really well and in the case of Molasses and Fish fertiliser if you double the standard strength they will actually kill bugs (only use this strong when necessary).

When using these Foliar Fertilisers always target the new growth as obviously this hasn’t had the benefit of regular applications. The new fresh tips are the restaurant of choice for Aphids and Mites so be vigilant and use the extra strength brew as soon as you see any activity.

If you keep up the Manure/Compost/Mulch on the ground and Foliar Fertilising then Pests and Disease incidence will become less and less of an issue. If in the meantime you do need some outside help then use Pyrethrum or Canola Oil (20mls/L) for Pests and Baking Soda (5mls/) Low-fat Milk (1part Milk to 9 parts water)  for Fungal problems will do the trick nicely.

Pruning of Roses consists of removing the flowers either for the Vase or just as the first petals drop if you want to leave them on. Gone are the days when you would leave all the growth on in the summer and prune vigorously in the Winter. When you cut the flowers always cut low, never leave any more than two or three leaves on that growth, this ensures good strong blooms. In the winter you can have a tidy up as in creating the correct structure but that is about all that should need doing.  If you have a Rose Bush looking a little tired or not establishing well then remove the flower buds before they bloom, this keeps all the plant's energy directed at growing rather than flowering. 

Use all of the above and you will see a huge difference in the quality of your Roses.

Be Happy,

Barry

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