Organic Vegetable Growing A-L
Organic Vegetables A-L
The list below is a short description on how to grow the more common Organic Vegetables.
Asparagus:
If looked after Asparagus will produce for at least twenty years. Being a perennial crop preparation is critical because once the crop is in the ground it gets harder to remedy a shortfall in their growing conditions. You will need the PH to be around the seven mark, a lot higher than a normal garden situation. So copious amounts of Lime and or Dolomite need to be applied (2-5 kg a square m) prior to planting to lift the PH. If your soil is a heavy one i.e. clay then you will need to add a lot of material to open the soil up, Asparagus won’t tolerate wet feet so add sand, mulch etc and raise the bed if there is any doubt at all. A raised bed keeps the roots out of a wet soil preventing any rot setting in. Plant the tubers 150 mm deep and 600mm between the plants. Mulch heavily every year, the first crop will be a small pick but year two on they will keep the fridge full of juicy spikes for a long time.
Beans:
This vegetable will keep you eating fresh produce all summer and plenty for the freezer to boot. Winter roasts are not the same without green vegetables on the side. Stagger your plantings so you do have a constant supply if you are growing them in one area plant part of the row each month so you have a spread of harvest. I prefer the runner bean both for taste and volume of the crop. Because they grow up a fence or trellis they don’t take up a lot of room in your garden, climbing beans also have a spread of crop as opposed to dwarf beans which tend to all come on at once. Beans are gross feeders so add plenty animal manure prior to planting, like peas they will respond well to plenty of manure/compost buried in the soil under the row where you are going to sow the seeds. Feed with liquid organic fertiliser during the growing season to keep them topped up and apply fish/seaweed foliar fertiliser at least every two weeks to deter any pests. Fish fertiliser keeps the white fly away, also check under the leaves regularly to watch out for any caterpillars which can devour a crop of growing beans in no time flat. Pyrethrum will nail any pests that do turn up, beans don’t traditionally attract any fungal problems.
Brassica:
This group includes broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower. With these plants, regular Liming is essential to prevent a Disease called clubroot. These can be grown pretty much all year round, different varieties are more suited to summer or winter growing so check with your local Garden Centre/Hardware for the best plants for your area. They do need a lot of space, some a square metre per plant. Brassicas are genially trouble-free, as always some animal manure incorporated into the soil prior to planting will produce a great crop. Keep an eye out for white butterfly which will leave caterpillars that chew the leaves. Who doesn’t like broccoli and cheese sauce!
Carrot:
Carrots love a nice open free draining soil and will sulk if subjected to wet feet. They are only moderate feeders so don’t overdo the manure but Lime every year prior to sowing your crop. Sow seed all year round for a constant supply of fresh carrots. Mix the seed with some sand to make it easier to spread them evenly. Thin them out to so they aren’t touching during the growing season. Carrot rust fly is the only real problem you will face with these, sprinkle coffee grounds along the row and or keep the tops covered with mulch. Interplanting with garlic will help deter most pests. Carrots and dip yummy!
Celery:
Again not a gross feeder but will require some feeding during the season, organic liquid fertiliser is the best way to achieve this. Likes the PH a little lower so don’t worry about applying any Lime unless there is a really low PH. Check the variety you get as some do need hilling as in timber or the likes placed around the Celery to encourage it to stretch for sunlight. A plant that requires a bit more attention but if you like celery the flavour of Organically grown plants is exceptional.
Corn:
Corn does require a fair bit of room but is rewarding if you have the area. Planted on the prevailing wind side of your garden it will protect your more sensitive plants during the season. If you do, sow the corn a little closer and make sure you have at least 6-7 rows so they will support each other in stronger winds. Feed them well as they are a plant that needs plenty of manure etc, keep them well watered and they will produce nice plump cobs. Generally trouble free but do watch out for aphids and caterpillars. Pick when the tassel is starting to dry off and freeze any surplus.
Cucumber:
An essential summer vegetable and no salad is complete without it. The cucumber won’t tolerate cold conditions so if you live in a cooler climate then sow them in peat pots in the greenhouse and plant out once the better weather has arrived. Train them up strings or poles to save space, this also helps to keep fungal problems away. They do require a lot of manure/compost and water so don’t scrimp otherwise you may be disappointed with the result. Keep the fish foliar fertiliser regular to keep the pests that they are prone to away. Powdery Mildew can be a problem, use skim milk at one part to nine parts water as an effective fungicide.
Lettuce:
An easy to grow and tasty vegetable. Grown in the right conditions you can pick a lettuce forty days after planting. Don’t use chicken manure on lettuce as it does encourage them to bolt rather than form a head, cow and sheep manure is by far the best manure. Give them plenty of room because they are prone to fungal attack under the bottom leaves if crowded. Check under the leaves also for slugs and snails their biggest predator, a trail of sand or coffee grinds around the plant helps to keep them away however the best protection is a can/jar buried in the soil half filled with beer, attracts them for miles, but what a way to go! Can be grown all year round but check for the right varieties. The non-hearting varieties give you the convenience of picking the leaves when needed.
Be Happy,
Barry.
Click here for my Facebook Blog
Latest comments
I want to fertilise my desert roses, what brand fertiliser do I use?😊
For long term residual control use regular liquid fish fertiliser as a foliar spray, another method if your plant is an ornamental is a soil drench with Neem Oil. Cheers, Barry
Christina, I find the best preventative is regular liquid fish fertilizer or if your plant is an ornamental a soil drench with Neem Oil is a great long term residual method. Cheers, Barry
Hi Christina, There are two ways of getting rid of the carcasses, wipe them off with either a damp cloth or paper towel or just wash them off with your garden hose. Cheers Barry